INTRODUCTION

Welcome! You have just become interested in a most fascinating and interesting hobby and certainly the oldest craft known to Man. No matter where your ancestors came from, all races and nationalities have used stone tools in the past. It is suspected that the reason we feel a need to make these tools and art pieces is because knapping is a part of our heritage and a natural human instinct. Today flint working is most strongly associated with American Indians because they were some of the last people to use stone tools. Perhaps, 90% of the knappers in the world are in the United States, however, interest is growing worldwide. This article was prepared with the beginner in mind, presenting an overview of the hobby along with information on the primary sources of literature, videos, tools, raw materials, and other paraphernalia associated with the craft. Please feel free to share this web publication with friends who are interested in knapping by passing it on or making a copy for them!

ALMOST A  LOST ART: A BRIEF HISTORY

OF MODERN FLINT KNAPPING

The modern English words "knapping" and "knapper" had their roots in the German language. "Knapp" meaning to crack, pinch off, or nibble, and "Knappen," among other things, can also mean "workman" or "craftsman." Thus, we have the English corruptions of the words for the action and the one who dose it. During the 18th and 19th centuries, knappers were those who made the flints for the old flint lock guns that were in use at that time. There were also some stone masons in flint rich areas who chipped this material into building blocks of various shapes. And, in Turkey, up until the middle of the last century, there was a small group of knapper still making flint blades for threshing sledges.

At the beginning of the Industrial Revolution, with the exception of those mentioned above, and a few isolated tribes in remote corners of the world, working flint had almost become a lost art. The age of metals had pretty well erased the knowledge of flint knapping from the mind of the average man. In fact, today most people haven’t the foggiest idea of how it was done. That’s why they stand in amazement when one of our modern knappers demonstrates the making of a simple projectile point.

Up until about forty years ago, most academics spent much of their time collecting and classifying artifacts with little interest in manufacturing techniques. However, there were a few exceptions. In 1911, Ishi, the last Stone Age Man in America, was found near starvation, cornered by dogs in a farmer’s barn. He was taken to the University of California where he was cared for and studied by Dr. Alfred Krober. The last “wild” Indian became a living exhibit in the museum where he spent his final days working as a janitor. Krober’s study of Ishi was perhaps the best documentation of knapping as it had been practiced in the far Western United States. Because the story of Ishi is so well known, most American knappers revere him as their link with the past.

There were also other early scholars such as Frank Cushing of the Smithsonian Institute, who attempted to replicate certain Indian crafts in the 1890’s, and Elonzo Pond, who wrote a lengthy report on the knapping techniques discovered by a Norwegian immigrant, Halvor Skavlem.  Skavlem was an amateur who knew a lot, and Pond was smart enough to take advantage of it.

In the late 1930’s, another landmark study was begun by Holmes Ellis, who headed the lithic laboratory for the Ohio Historical Society. He and his associates tried every technique found in the ethnographic literature. For a long time his report was one of the only readily available books on the subject. Most of the time, amateurs were ignored by professional archaeologists. However, in the 1960’s, this was soon to change when Earl Swanson of Idaho State University recognized the skills of Don Crabtree, who ironically had worked for Ellis years earlier. Even though the lithic lab was closed at the start of WW II Crabtree continued experimenting on his own. He and Professor Francois  Bordes, a French pre-historian who also had a passion for stone working, became the founding fathers of experimental lithic technology.

In the private sector, flint knapping fared less well. Here, Indian relic collectors actively discouraged experimentation and for the most part refused to publish reports on such experiments fearing the promotion of fakers and faking. The few scattered individuals who did make a living from these activities didn't share their secrets because their livelihood depended upon it. In this climate, the grass roots revival of the craft would find fertile soil elsewhere in the form of living history buffs and the re-enactor.

In 1975, the first edition of D.C. Waldorf’s  book, The Art of Flint Knapping, became available at rendezvous, black powder shoots, pow-wows, gun shops and historical society museums. For the first time the inquisitive had a straight forward no-nonsense guide to the craft. Today, The Art of Flint Knapping is in its fifth edition, and still available along with an ever growing mass of information in print, on videos, and on the internet. With the advent of knap-ins, and collectors taking a more positive attitude, this near-lost-art seems to once again, have a bright future.

HOW LONG DOSE IT TAKE TO LEARN?

One of the prevailing questions from prospective knappers is “How long will it take to be able to make a decent point?” In the past, people who were working by themselves spent many years learning the very basics of knapping.  They didn’t have the readily available how-to books, videos, classes and large gatherings of craftsmen from whom information, tools and raw stone could be quickly obtained. By taking full advantage of the above, the learning curve can be substantially shortened. Depending upon how much time you spend on a daily basis, how far you want to go with your craft, and your aptitude for manual skills, six months to a year is the average for a person who really applies himself. Also, the type or style of knapping you choose to major in has some bearing on how long. For example, percussion flaking large bifaces from irregular blocks of flint will take much longer to master than pressure flaking a small arrow point from a sawed slab. In the next two sections we will cover the methods and styles of knapping.

HOW STONE FRACTURES AND THE THREE

METHODS OF FORCE APPLICATION

 First of all, forget heating the stone and dropping water on it. This theory has long since been debunked by modern experimenters who have rediscovered how flint really fractures, and the three basic ways in which it was worked in a controllable manner.

When examined closely, the surface of a finished point will exhibit a wavy appearance. These "flake scars" are a frozen record of the shock waves generated by a series of blows dealt to the edges of a piece of flint.

This drawing by Val Waldorf of an ancient Hopewell point clearly shows the rippled scars left by blows that were dealt to its edges.

Fine-grained flint-like rocks and obsidian, fracture conchoidally. This "conchiodal" fracturing is best illustrated when a BB strikes plate glass and a little cone pops out opposite the point of impact. Theoretically, when force is applied to the edge of the glass only a portion of the cone is removed. However, things are not so simple. The fracture may start out as a partial cone, then go on to be influenced by the angle and amplitude of the force, and the conditions of the surface under which the "flake" travels. There are also many other factors that have to be figured in, such as; the preparation of the edge in order to withstand the application of the force, and what methods and tools are to be used.

Above, is the cross section of a plate glass window with a BB impact and resulting "Hertzian" cone. Note. the "fracture front" forms at about 130° to the line of force. Below, is the cone theory as applied to a "flake" being removed. Knowing, at what angle to strike should make for longer, or shorter flakes. However, the size and shape of those flakes will also be influenced by the surface configurations of the piece being worked as well as many other factors!   

The three main methods of force application used to fracture stone are as follows:

1. Direct percussion. Striking with some sort of hammer. Most commonly used are antler billets, hammer stones, or modern copper billets.

Knapper's eye view of a blow being dealt to the edge of a "preform" using a moose antler "billet."

2. Pressure flaking. Flakes are pried off by pressing against the edge of the stone with a pointed tool like the copper tipped one shown, or an antler tine.

Knapper's eye view of pressure flaking using a copper pointed tool. The preform is being held on a bench rested pad.

3. Indirect percussion. Using an antler or copper punch struck by a hammer to detach the flakes. 

Indirect percussion using an antler sleeved copper punch. The work rests on a bench pad, and the "driver" is a moose antler billet. 

For more on fracture theory and force application check out chapters 1, and 4 through 6 of The Art of Flint Knapping, Fifth Edition.

STYLES OF KNAPPING

The application of the three basic methods in varying degrees, along with the use of the different tools, and in some cases, modern lapidary equipment, determines the styles of knapping we see practiced today. 

Traditional knapping. Traditional knappers use only tools and techniques that were familiar to their stone age predecessors. Hard and soft hammerstones and antler billets for percussion, along with antler tines, and in some cases, copper tipped tools for pressure are used in an attempt to make as close a copy of an original artifact as possible. If you are mostly interested in recreating the past, and can afford aboriginal tools, this is the method for you. Antler does need constant maintenance and wears out rather quickly. However, some of the best knappers in the country still prefer it only. They firmly believe that the results are better, and to them, constantly re-sharpening their tools is part of the craft.

Modern knapping. The main thing that separates “modern” knappers from “traditionalists” is that they prefer to make their billets using copper, as well as the tips of their pressure flakers. Copper pressure flakers were used in North America to a limited extent, and in the Late Neolithic and Early Bronze Age of Europe and other parts of the world where this metal was available in its natural state.

If you wish to produce points quickly and you are not concerned with recreating the past, you may want to go with the copper billet. Copper billet proponents swear by their tools, claiming they spend less time in maintenance and more time knapping.

At the start, consider your objective; you will have to decide which methods and tools you are going to use. You can learn to use both if you are aware of the differences and keep them in mind. Working methods vary when using copper billets as opposed to antler, especially between antler and solid copper billets. Copper may not help you learn faster. In fact, if you attempt to use copper tools with antler techniques you will have problems. At this point, if you cannot decide which tools to start with you would be wise to seek out an instructor and use the same tools he is using. If you decide to switch after you have gained some experience you will be better able to make the necessary adjustments.

Lap knapping. A form of knapping which utilizes sawed slabs as stock for pressure flaking points is gaining popularity. Since you can purchase ready-sawed material no other mechanical equipment is necessary to start with. Knappers who make these points on a regular basis own their own rock saws and frequently work expensive gemstones or colorful agates. By sawing them, then pressure flaking over the sawed surfaces, they can save on material costs and make beautiful points at the same time.

Traditional and "FOG" knapping compared. Left, replica of a Pine Tree point made by D.C. Waldorf using only antler tools. Right, Corner Notch made by the late Don Kylberg from a pre-shaped and ground preform that was pressure flaked using a copper tipped tool.

Flake-over-grinding. Another form of lap-knapping is “flake-over-grinding” or “FOG” knapping. This method uses rock grinding equipment as well as sawn slabs. The sawed blank is carefully ground into a preform shape, including a lenticular cross-section, tapered tip, and base. Platforms are ground in as well. Then pressure flaking is done to produce near perfect parallel or oblique patterns of flaking.

They say “everything old is new again” and that is probably true here. This same method was employed in prehistoric Denmark and in ancient Egypt to produce spectacular daggers and knives. Of course they had to percussion flake their blanks and then grind the surfaces smooth by hand, but the idea and results are the same none the less.

INFORMATION: BOOKS, DVDs,

MAGAZINES, and the INTERNET

Before continuing our discussion on tools and raw materials we should first have a look at the educational media that is available, and that which we recommend the beginner acquire first. By reading a book and watching a video one will get a good idea as to whether he, or she really wishes to pursue the craft. If so, they will be better informed as to what style of knapping and what tools and materials will be necessary. In the short run, getting this information first could save the novice a lot of time and money.

Books. There are several books on the market that deal with the subject of flintknapping, but there is only one that we would recommend for the beginner. This is D.C. Waldorf’s The Art of Flint Knapping. In print since 1975 and now in its fifth edition, it has come to be affectionately called “The Flint Knapper’s Bible.” It is a compact, well written and beautifully illustrated volume that covers the basics of the craft along with advanced theory and practice. Wasting no wordage in getting to the point, this book is not only a crash course on the subject, but a reference that even seasoned knappers continue to reread from time to time and still find something that they may have overlooked.

DVDs. Perhaps the most powerful teaching tool to be invented in recent years is videography. The Waldorf’s took advantage of this technology early on and produced the first available instructional video in 1993. This was The Art of Flint Knapping Video Companion. Digitally re-mastered from the original footage, computer edited, and re-released on DVD; it’s now better than ever with titles linking the scenes to the chapters and figures in the book. Even though both the book and video have  become classics, they still remain the most powerful stand-alone teaching tools for the beginner. Also, another DVD we highly recommend is D.C. Waldorf- Beyond Thrashing & Bashing- Flint Knapping: Next Steps. This production picks up where the Video Companion leaves off. It is a two disc set that up-dates the tools and techniques that D.C. now uses to get the most out of his rock supply.

Magazines. Up until the end of 2011, when it ceased publication as a printed magazine, CHIPS served the knapping community for 23 years! Started by the Waldorfs in 1989, it was a quarterly containing how-to articles, tips, current news having to do with knapping, knap-ins, and advertisements for products and services related to the field. With CHIPS no longer in print, the publisher has produced THE BEST OF CHIPS series. Each of these volumes contains the best and most useful articles drawn from the magazine’s 20 + year run. Nowhere else, in one place, can so much be found on the subject. If The Art Of Flint Knapping is the “primer,” then THE BEST OF CHIPS is the “encyclopedia” and an absolute must for all serious practitioners of the craft.

The above publications, and DVDs are available from Mound Builder Books, for more information and ordering, click on the Books, Videos, Posters & Tools page of this site.

The Internet. Part of the reason that CHIPS lost so many of its readers and writers was the advent of this new media in which one could find, for free, some of the information that was published in the magazine. There are several websites that deal with knapping in whole, or in part, and are relatively easy to find if you are a good, and patient "surfer." However, we have seen these sites come-and-go, and one must be cautious about the nature of the information. Do these sites have a "moderator" that checks out the material before it is posted? And, how much knapping experience do the moderators and the writers have? This site is produced and maintained by the former editor and founder of CHIPS magazine who has over 45 years of experience as a professional commercial knapper. He has authored many books and articles on knapping and knapping related subjects and has also studied archeology, anthropology and history all his life. So, you can be assured that, to the best of his knowledge, the information in this site is good and correct! 

For more about what's to come in the way of a website that will pick up where the magazine left off, see the "Announcements" section at the bottom of the table at left.

TOOLS

 Once you have decided to get into flint knapping and the decision is made as to what type of work you wish to do, the search for tools and raw materials begins. The following is an up to date run-down on the tools that are available.

Hammer Stones. Hammer stones were the first knapping tools to be used by Early Man and are fairly easy to find. Local creek beds, lakes and seashores are full of them. Depending on the material they are made of they fall into two basic categories; hard and soft. The hard ones are usually granite, quartzite, or even poor quality chert. They are mostly used for spalling and ruff work. Soft hammer stones of dolomite, sandstone and other materials that fall into this same range are used for finer work and can act more like antler. Like all other percussors, you will have to choose the right size and type for the job. Believe it or not, a lot can be done with hammer stones and there are those who are so expert in their use that they are able to equal the better work done by those who use antler or copper. If you are interested in these tools it would behoove you to find one of these fellows and have him instruct you in their proper use.

Antler Billets. There are five types of antler commonly used by knappers today. They are listed here in order of desirability and durability. Moose is the biggest, toughest, hardest and heaviest. Professionals use it because it outlasts and outperforms all others. A moose antler trunk will be solid all the way from the rosette to the palm and in many cases sections of the palm and larger tines can also be used for billet material. Even an old gray, weathered rack can be quite solid, in fact, those that have some age on them are usually harder.

Sambar stag, sometimes referred to as “India stag,” is almost as solid and heavy as moose. These make great small to medium sized billets when you can find them. The trunks are from five to six inches long, and from ¾ to 1 inch in diameter. They are usually available from knife makers’ supply companies, so check a knife makers’ magazine for these outfits. Also, they are sometimes seen at rendezvous and black powder shoots.

White tailed, black tail, mule deer and caribou antlers, especially in bigger sizes, are getting scarce. There is fierce competition for trophy racks and these are the ones most desirable for billets. Also, state laws are being passed to curb illicit trading and poaching which has increased with this phenomenon. Buying a whole rack without papers verifying that it was taken legally may be against the law in your state. If you get it in pieces then it may be considered “processed.”  Once cut up, antlers loose their value to all but flint knappers and knife makers. Unlike moose antlers, grey, weathered deer antlers are usually no good for knapping. Caribou antlers vary in quality, some are solid and heavy while others are more like elk. It is best to check them out in person before purchasing. Heft them and compare them with good, heavy antlers. If they feel too light, pass them by. This same test applies to all antlers.

Elk is perhaps the poorest choice. When freshly shed, the trunks will be solid from the rosette up for only a couple of inches. Then they begin to get pithy. The older the rack, the lighter and pithier they become. Many beginners use them in a pinch, especially if they get them for free. They will do until something better can be found.

The size of billet you will need will depend upon the raw material you plan to work. For spalling out large blocks, a big moose antler can be used in lieu of a hammerstone. It may actually be better because it produces broader, flatter flakes. For general work on medium to small pieces, something the size of the Sambar stag is ideal. If you plan to work a variety of materials, your tool kit should contain a large, medium and small billet, at minimum.

At any rate, antlers are getting harder to find and the quality will vary considerably. We suggest that you go to a knap-in or rendezvous and check out what is available in person. Depending upon the size and whether they are finished into a tool or raw, the price will run from about $10 to $60 and up!

Once you have obtained your antlers, you may have to finish them into tools yourself. They can be cut up with a hacksaw or band saw. We recommend that you grind them with a disk sander that can be attached to an electric drill, a belt sander or auto body sander is even better. For touch up or reworking, a coarse file will do the job.  Do not use a high speed carborundum grinder, the wheel will load up immediately and all you will do is burn the antler which will stink to high heavens!

An assortment of antler billets and their copper bopper equivalents along with two sizes of solid copper rod billets. The long solid copper billet is 5½  inches by ¾ inch in diameter and weighs 12 ounces. The short one is 3¾ by 1 inch, and weighs 14 ounces. Both have been wrapped with electrical tape for comfort and to keep the hands from turning black! The largest bopper on left is 8½ long with a 2¼ inch diameter head, and weighs over 1¼ pounds. Its handle was made from a table leg and it lays beside  my second largest moose billet! The other four boppers range in size from 5½ to 4 inches long with head diameters of 1¾ to 1 inch, having weights of  13 ounces, down to as light as 3 ounces. 

Copper Billets. With antlers getting scarce and expensive, many have turned to using copper for billets, and many more are getting started with them. It is now estimated that over 80 percent of today’s knappers use copper percussors in one form or another, so if you start with them you are in good company!  These tools are readily available at knap-ins or by mail order. For sources check the table at left under "Flintknapping Supplies & Suppliers." However, with only a few tools you can certainly make your own. Basically, metal percussors fall into three categories: solid copper bars, paddles and copper cap billets.

Cold drawn solid copper bars in sizes of 7/8 or one-inch diameter are used for medium to small billets. They can be cut to length to suit the user. Larger diameters such as 1 & ½  to 2 inches are generally used to spall out large blocks of material.

Copper paddles are made from bars of copper that are 3/8 or ½ inch thick by one to one and ½ inches wide. These bars are worked into paddle-shaped tools by rounding off the working ends and adding wooden handles for control and comfort.

Out side of obtaining your copper at a knap-in you may wish to find a metal supplier in your area. Just use the phone book or contact any machine shop and ask them where they buy their metal. With the price of copper being so volatile these days, the price of the raw material or finished tools will vary with the market.

Copper capped billets, affectionately called ”copper-boppers,” are made from a copper water pipe end cap that has had its flat end hammered out to a hemispherical shape. After forming, the cap is partially filled with lead and then glued to a wooden handle. This type of tool has become very popular because it has a “feel” and action closer to antler, and is the cheapest to buy or make. There are even dies available for forming the caps and preformed replacement caps can be obtained from those who sell the tools.

Pressure Flakers. You can use deer antler tines for pressure flakers as Stone Age people did. They should be fairly straight, and most will be solid on the tips for at least a couple of inches. However, they wear out fairly quick and suitable antlers can be hard to come by. You can get around this partially by securely mounting small, stout pieces of antler or hard bone in a wood handle. This way you can use more of what you have. These tools have been found in dry caves out west. Now-a-days almost everyone uses copper tipped tools, and even though it is hard for the untrained eye to tell which tool was used to finish a point, there are definitely some differences in working techniques. This is discussed at length in the literature, for starters see pages 79 and 80 in The Art Of Flint Knapping, Fifth Edition.

The copper tips are made from a length of heavy gauge ground wire or rod. These can be mounted in any handle material; wood, antler, or hard flexible nylon. The most efficient tool has a long hole drilled into the handle that is a little larger than the diameter of the copper. Set screws in the side of the handle holds the tip firmly in place. In this way it can be pulled out whenever it begins to get too short from re-sharpening.

You may see a pressure flaking tool known as an “Ishi stick.” This is simply a pressure flaker with an extra long handle, which is held under the arm for additional force. Handles can be made of wood, steel pipe, or nylon. A word of caution here. With an Ishi stick you can generate a lot of force, enough to stab a finger or hand if you slip up. We advise beginners to watch another knapper carefully before using this tool and ware gloves until you get the hang of it.

An assortment of pressure flakers and punches. Left to right: antler tine; antler handled flaker with copper tip; antler handle with bone or antler tip; pressure flaker with copper tip and nylon handle; nylon handle with steel nail tip for notching; large and small antler tine punches used for driving off prismatic blades from cores, fluting, or square-sectioned work on Danish axes; and copper punch with antler sleeve for finer work on Danish dagger handles and sometimes notching.

Punches. These tools are used for indirect percussion and are made from large diameter antler tines or copper rods. One I have used for many years has an antler sleeve and copper tip. Also, steel nails have been used for popping in fine, narrow notches. Though not authentic, it works very well. Antler punches, here in the US, are mostly used for indirect percussion fluting of Cumberland, Clovis and Folsom points. I use punches of several types for my Danish axes, daggers and blade cores.

STONES FOR KNAPPING 

Now that you have some tools you will need something to use them on. There are two ways of obtaining raw stone for knapping, one is to find it yourself, and the other is to purchase it.

Finding your own source. Before you spend any more money it might be worth your time to hunt up a flint source of your own.  If you are one of the lucky ones such a source could be as close as a local creek bed, road cut, or construction site where large amounts of earth are being moved. Any sizable, solid, fine grained rock that fractures conchoidally is fair game. Look at artifact collections found in your area. What did the prehistoric people use? What is the name of the stone, what formation did it come out of? Keep in mind that most flint and cherts patinate, and so weathered surfaces may be a slightly different color. Look for freshly broken surfaces on old artifacts to determine their original appearance.

Once you have a name, or a formation you can ask a local rock hound, or look for it on a U.S. Geological Survey Geologic Quadrangle map. These can be found at the County Seat or purchased from USGS Information Services, Box 25286, Denver, Co. 80225. You can also go on line and navigate their web site at www.search.usgs.gov. Once you have located the chert bearing formation look for the aforementioned creek beds, road cuts, construction sites, and remember to always ask for permission to hunt on private property. If you hunt chert from a boat be aware of state property laws, going too far ashore could be considered trespassing. Also remember that collecting stone on government property is usually illegal.

An assortment of raw and processed stone bought at a knap-in. Above center, is a now rare, Indians Horn Stone nodule. Top left are a spall and blank made of the same stone. Above right, is a chunk of obsidian sitting on a sawed slab of Horn Stone. Across the center are early stage preforms of heat treated Burlington Chert and Flint Ridge, Ohio material. Bottom, later stage preforms of Novaculite, Flint Ridge and Burlington cherts. Sold by the inch, these are the most expensive!

Purchasing Material. If you have had no luck finding a suitable source within a reasonable distance, then purchasing stone may be the only alternative. Considering the cost of travel you may actually save money, but only if you know what you are looking for and how to buy.

Chunk material is usually offered at knap-ins. The average price at this time is anywhere from $2 to $3.00 a pound,  usually more for the very colorful or gem grades. However, knapping can be extremely wasteful. Once that $2 a pound stone is worked into a rough preform shape you could end up with $10-20 a pound invested, and you still may have to heat treat it. When you approach the $2 a pound range, unless you intend to use most of the small flakes to make bird points, this may not be the best buy for you.

Many suppliers will offer heat-treated blanks, spalls, or slabs, ready to work. These will be sold by the piece, or by the pound. Larger, prettier preforms are usually sold on an individual basis, priced so much per inch. The new knapper would be wise to shop for the plainer, “by the pound” heat-treated blanks. The price for such stone at this time averages around $2.00 to $3.50 a pound, a real bargain because thinner blanks mean less waste. Consider the amount of thinning which has already been done when comparing the price of various offerings.

In the section on knap-ins, we mention haggling over the price of stone. If there is a lot of stone for sale, and few buyers, the price will often be reduced on Sunday afternoon. By then, the best is all gone. However, the remaining rough chunks and  plainer looking, smaller blanks are fine for beginning knappers, and may be quite a bargain. Don’t hesitate to ask experienced knappers for advice on purchasing stone; they can point out flaws, cracks and grainy areas that might cause a problem for you.

When you purchase material, whether it’s by mail, or at a knap-in, you cannot return it, or expect a refund if you break it. Most suppliers try to sell you crack free stone, but they don’t make enough money to replace every piece you break, whether it was caused by a flaw, or your own fault. Most pros buy their materials at knap-ins, they not only get to see what they’re paying for, they also save a lot on shipping charges.

Knap-ins also offer you an excellent chance to pick up free flake samples of numerous types of stone. Simply walk up, introduce yourself to the knapper, ask him what he is chipping, and if he wouldn’t mind if you took a flake from his chip pile for a sample. He will be happy to tell you whether the material has been “cooked” and what temperature it required. However, he probably won’t tell you where he found it if he picked it up himself. Most who have been at it for a while have learned to protect the location of their sources. On the other hand, if they bought it they will usually tell you from whom they got it. Use a felt-tipped pen and write the name and pertinent information on the flake. Then you might want to try rock hunting again. With careful investigation and note taking, you may now discover that good source you’ve been looking for.

For a list of who has rock for sale check out the list of suppliers at left. For information on heat treating you may consider purchasing a copy of Roasting Rocks: The Art and Science of Heat Treating to be found in the products page in this site.

KNAP-INS

Knap-ins are a phenomena that really got rolling in the early 1980’s. Hobbyists and professionals all enjoy meeting others of like interest. Today it is not unusual for one of these events to attract a hundred, or more, active knappers, plus many more onlookers and buyers. Here you will find every kind of tool for the craft, a huge variety of materials, as well as displays of knappers’ work for show and for sale. Best of all, most of these craftsmen are very willing to give “newbies” free instruction and advise that will speed the learning process.

A typical knap-in scene, this photo was taken at Flint Ridge, Ohio. This is one of the largest, with as many as 200 knappers in attendance.  Not only are there knappers to watch; on the tables in the background there are books, DVDs, tools, rocks on tarps on the ground, and much more!

Usually these events are loosely organized. There may be a small registration fee, but for the most part they are free and open to the public. Knappers can set up their displays and do business at no extra charge. However, there are some rules and etiquette that should be observed.

Feel free to ask questions but don’t expect any one knapper, especially the better known individuals, to devote the entire afternoon to your problems alone. At such events there are usually more novices than the experienced, who must spread their time among many people. The commercial knapper usually has a table to watch as well.  Most are very generous in sharing their knowledge, they will even identify raw material for you, but, as mentioned before, they won’t give you the locations of their private flint sources, so don’t ask.

Dickering or haggling over the price of stone is an acceptable practice at knap-ins. You can expect a better price if you buy a large quantity. Be advised though, that the premium material is usually gone by the second day. However, you may pick up some bargains on the lesser grade material on Sunday afternoon.

If you intend to do any work, bring a canvas, or drop cloth to catch the chips. Never test or blank rocks in parking areas! No one wants to have flat tires thanks to you. Also, bring tables and your own chairs. It is also advised that you leave large, or untrustworthy, dogs at home. Many such events are advertised with a “please, no pets” clause.

Children at knap-ins are usually welcome, just be sure that you do not let them play in the chip piles, especially some one else’s chips. Nothing drives a knapper crazy like having a kid messing around in his debitage.  While he is trying to work, he shouldn’t have the added burden of babysitting.

Littering can be a problem, so please pick up all of your trash down to the last empty pop can, and paper plate. It is also polite, and helpful, to pick up after others as well. Your efforts will be appreciated!

Knap-ins can be very expensive to host. Consider the cost of food [if provided "free."] parking area damage, rental fees on the site, and the cost of hauling in and servicing porta-johns. Find the “donation kitty,” if there is one, and please be generous.

Most knappers don’t mind being videoed, but a few of them do. So ask before you shoot and you won’t have any problems.

If you intend on making purchases, take cash. Almost no one will be able to take your credit card and out of state vendors may be reluctant to accept your checks.

It is best to call ahead and find out what motels and restaurants are in the area and make reservations. Don’t assume you can get a room when you get there, you might end up sleeping in your car. In many cases, local motels fill quickly when a big knap-in is held and sometimes they are held in conjunction with, or at, the same time as other events.

Now there are a few more rules that pertain to "invitational knap-ins." These are unadvertised, small get-togethers held at an individuals home. When you are lucky enough to receive an invitation to one of them, it means YOU only, and possibly your spouse. As with any private party, you should accept, or decline the invitation by contacting the hosts and informing them. The hosts are counting heads carefully to be sure there is enough food, and parking may be limited, so DON’T invite your friends along without asking. Knap-in etiquette applies double here: no littering, excessive drinking, or loud behavior. Pick up every chip, donate to the kitty, thank the hosts, and you will be welcome next time.

One last thing to keep in mind. Most of these events are scheduled to cover Saturday and Sunday. In reality, many knappers show up on Friday, or even Thursday! By Sunday morning most of them start packing up, and Sunday afternoon is pretty quiet. If you only have one day to attend, make it Saturday!

How do you find out about these events? It's as simple as checking out the list at the top of the left column on this page!

SAFETY AND KNAPPING

Knappers tend to joke about “sacrificial bloodletting,” and some of them seem to be proud of their nasty cuts, but the truth is one can avoid most injuries by using some common sense and following the suggestions below.

Flint and chert are razor sharp, and obsidian is sharper than surgical steel! But, if you handle your stone with care you need not get cut. In fact, most cuts occur when someone is reaching into a bucket of stone, or attempts to load large boulders into their vehicle without wearing any gloves.

Always wear heavy gloves when moving chunks of chert or when spalling out very large boulders. When knapping, wear safety glasses. Minute flakes of stone can fly upward and hit you in the eye. If you are adverse to wearing glasses, at least squint when you strike. This is how the old timers did it!

Heavy leather pads are used to protect the thigh when working on the leg. If you are a beginner, you may be hitting your leg more often than the stone. So, it is suggested that you either double up on the pad, or place a piece of old carpeting under it to further soften the blow until your aim improves.

Old time English gunflint knappers, due to the climate, spent a lot of time working in poorly ventilated buildings with heavy concentrations of silica dust in the air. Many contracted “silicosis,” which is similar to coal miners’ black lung disease. As a result their respiratory systems were so weakened that they died at a relatively young age from complications such pneumonia and emphysema.

Fear of silicosis became something of a paranoia for a while, but the truth is, very few part time knappers are exposed to enough silica dust to cause problems. In fact, their regular jobs may expose them to far more dangerous dusts and chemicals than chipping, and don’t forget smoking!

The best solution to this problem is to work outside. If you feel you have to wear a dust mask you will have to buy a rather expensive one that is rated for smoke and fumes. Because silica dust is so fine, most garden type masks will not catch it. Don’t work flint in the house, or in a building with a central heat & air system, as you will contaminate the ductwork with this dust. If you must work inside make sure it is in a building separate from your house and that it is well ventilated.

ETHICS AND KNAPPING

The “passing off” of reproductions has become a real nightmare for artifact collectors. While it is true that most of the new pieces are easily recognized if one takes the time to study before he spends his money, there are some so authentic looking that even the experts have to do a double take! Especially if it’s got dirt on it, or chemically applied patina which most knappers don’t do. The entire market has been fueled by exorbitant prices that collectors have been willing to pay for genuine, old artifacts. Collectors blame knappers while knappers get disgusted with the uneducated and often express the old adage that “a fool and his money are soon parted.” They sell their work as new but have no control over what happens to it after it leaves their hands. They feel that any object can be “used for no-good,” and they’re right. All of this has given knappers a bad name.

Marking points can prevent some of this. However, unscrupulous people can sometimes remove even engraved marks. If he marks his work, at least the knapper can honestly say he tried to the best of his ability to prevent fraud. But, there are better reasons for signing your work. Today we are attempting to create new markets for flaked stone pieces. Knappers are moving into new areas, such as the knife-collecting field, creating works that are indeed art and not just reproductions of old artifacts. It is very important to the buyers that a work of art should be signed. Best of all, they pay well for fine work, much more than the illicit artifact dealer.

Now, how do you mark your points? You can buy diamond pointed scribes that can be used to scratch your initials or trademark on a flake scar near the center of the blade. Better, are electric engravers that will leave a deeper mark. Even ink will usually satisfy, however, we recommend the more permanent methods above. 

Incidentally, the collecting of other knappers’ work seems to be a substantial part of the hobby. Many craftsmen enjoy trading with others and have amassed sizable collections with each point being signed. Some even want a photo of the maker and background information with the pieces they acquire.

CONCLUSION

We hope you have enjoyed reading this short introduction to flint knapping and will use the information we have provided to help you, or a friend get started. If you have chosen not to participate in the hobby, please pass this information on to some one else who may be interested.